News in Frames: Wular’s autumn nibbles

The Hindu’s News in Frames: October 13, 2024

Water chestnut, known as goer in Kashmir, is an aquatic vegetable that grows in the Wular Lake, one of the largest freshwater lakes in Asia. The grass-like sedge is in high demand during autumn in Kashmir. For hundreds of families living around the lake in Bandipora district of northern Kashmir, it’s one of the main sources of income in the season.

The harvest typically begins in late September with people from the villages around the lake, both men and women, taking part in the tedious work to pull out the water chestnuts.

They venture into the lake in shikaras and other boats to start the labour-intensive exercise, spending several hours on the lake to collect the chestnuts. The plants have extremely sharp spines with barbs that can cause serious injuries if stepped upon. The villagers make footwear out of long pieces of wood to venture into the marshy areas of the lake.

Many prefer to sell the vegetable on the day of harvest, while others take it home for drying and processing to fetch a better price.

The edible kernel, concealed beneath a thick outer layer, is peeled off, dried, and pounded into flour. People also use the sturdy dried outer shells as fuel in the traditional fire pots known as kangri during winter.

Water chestnut and lotus stem are eaten in dishes during during Navaratri, especially when fasting rituals may not permit the use of grains. They are also easily digestible and provide energy, which is crucial when fasting. When peeled, the chestnut reveals white flesh with a crunchy, juicy texture and a sweet taste.

The trade in water chestnut is mainly handled by the poorer section of society and is not regulated or registered by the government. Despite the challenges, it remains a significant part of the economic activity around the lake, besides tourism and fishing.