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Raju Gari Paakasaala: A flavourful journey through coastal Andhra cuisine
The Hindu
Experience authentic Andhra flavors at Raju Gari Paakasaala with a signature non-veg thali and traditional coastal dishes.
It begins with Konaseema kodi vepudu, a traditional Andhra chicken fry. And then they arrive, placed in a thali: bendakaya ulli masala (lady’s finger fry), gutti vankaya (stuffed brinjal), karivepaku bellam pachadi (curry leaves jaggery pickle), gongura pappu (sorrel leaves dal), chicken curry. The signature non-veg thali at Raju Gari Paakasaala is an assault on the senses. On a cloudy afternoon, we settle down to taste authentic Andhra flavours at the new restaurant.
The rustic ambience, with earthy decor and ochre-toned walls painted with muggu patterns, gives one the homely feel of a quaint Andhra village.
Started in December 2023, Raju Gari Paakasala’s menu is a celebration of authentic Andhra flavours. The dishes are said to be prepared without artificial flavour enhancers.
The founder Swaroop Polimera came up with the idea of serving Andhra dishes with traditional cooking style and a focus on popular dishes from coastal Andhra. “Palavs are very popular in the coastal belt of Andhra. We have made an effort to preserve traditional recipes that have been passed down generations,” explains Swaroop and adds: “We stay away from colouring agents and flavour enhancers and offer home-style meals.”
Here, the menu covers almost every dish of coastal Andhra. The sides are a highlight, which includes the signature naatu kodi vepudu (country chicken fry), ulavacharu royyalu vepudu (prawn fry made with horse gram); then there is biryani and palav.
Each preparation is different: the reservoir cheppalu pulusu (river fish curry) is tangy, and mildly-sweet; while the palavs are fiery and enhanced by the flavour of curry leaves.
The naatu kodi palav is a highlight: while on the spicier side, it ticks all the boxes of a good palav. The chicken dum biryani comes with the rayata; but we suggest you give it a pass and have the palav instead which comes in nine varieties. The chutneys and pickles, often the stars of an Andhra meal, are made in-house.