Hidden flavours of the North East in Bengaluru
The Hindu
A look at a few Assamese restaurants in the city and their clientele
Assamese cuisine is one of the lesser explored in Bengaluru, even though it offers a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian choices. From khaar, a gravy made out of papaya, to pork roast, the options available offer a unique blend of flavours and textures.
We take a look at some restaurants that serve Assamese cuisine in Bengaluru:
Jitendra Baruah, manager of Gams Delicacy in Koramangala, explains how the use of authentic ingredients is at the heart and soul of Assamese cuisine. “We craft a variety of chutneys made with white sesame seeds, ghost pepper and lentils, which are the traditional accompaniments to our main dishes; they enhance the overall dining experience,” he says.
Some essential ingredients in this cuisine include bamboo shoot, kharoli (mustard seed paste), koldil (banana flower), outenga (elephant apple), thekera tenga (amlavetasa), laisaak (mustard greens), kumura (gourd), kaji nemu (Assamese lemon) and horu aloo (baby potato). While most of these ingredients are sourced locally, some come from Assam.
At Gams Delicacy, which has been in business since 2015, traditional dishes of boiled chicken, pork and fish are served regularly while jolpaan (made of flattened rice, cream, jaggery and curd), bora saul (sticky rice) and pitha (a sweet) are made occasionally. According to Jitendra, most Assamese customers order smoked pork or pork made with bamboo shoot while non-Assamese customers usually order chicken or pork with potato curry.
Certain items such as bamboo shoot see a mixed response from customers, Jitendra says. “Certain preparations and spices are unfamiliar in taste, smell and texture and non-native customers might find them difficult to enjoy. It could be an acquired taste.”
Gams follows the tradition of serving tamul-paan (betel nut served with its leaf) after a meal. “It is a part of our custom back home so here too, we serve tamul-paan in a horai which is a traditional tray used in prayer offerings and felicitations.” he says.