In Frames | The valley’s brew

In Frames: The valley’s brew — the ‘nunchai’, a salted pink-coloured tea, is a culturally significant part of Kashmiri life and its cuisine; it has managed to reach the menus of elite restaurants overseas too

August in Srinagar is almost always pleasant during the day and slightly chilly at night. Residents choose to spend time outdoors when they get a chance. One beverage that is a signature of Kashmir is the nunchai , a salted pink-coloured tea, which is a culturally significant part of Kashmiri life and its unique cuisine.

Its distinctive taste, creamy texture and elaborate preparation in the copper utensil known as samovar sets it apart from other teas across the world.

Most people who consume nunchai like it pink, but there are also those who prefer to consume it without the addition of baking soda that gives it the pink colour. The salt in the tea provides electrolytes to its consumer and helps prevent dehydration at high altitudes.

Nunchai is traditionally made from green tea leaves, milk, salt and baking soda. The leaves are boiled for about an hour with baking soda until it turns burgundy, then ice or cold water is added to ‘shock’ it to stay in that colour. When milk is added, it combines with the burgundy to yield its signature pink. It is then aerated by ladling out some of the tea and pouring it back into the pot to draw in tiny air bubbles, a process that yields a froth and that may take hours to do by hand. Green cardamom or star anise can be added for aroma and taste.

Nunchai has remained an integral part of Kashmir’s hospitality and culture, representing a gesture of warmth and respect. This tea is traditionally served with locally made breads — sheermal , a mildly sweet bread, and sometimes with makke ki roti (flattened rotis made of corn flour), making it a memorable part of the Kashmir experience even for the visitors. Its soothing taste helps to wash down the breads.

With tourist descending on Kashmir, nunchai is ubiquitous: it is served in resorts across Kashmir Valley where the guests enjoy the beverage in the picturesque locales. The local people enjoy the tea during their picnics.

Nunchai has managed to reach the menus of elite restaurants and hotels outside the Valley, and overseas too, where the beverage is sold as a unique representative of Kashmir’s identity.