A toast to tradition: How Jaipur is reinventing the cocktail experience with charred mangoes and agave infused spirits
The Hindu
Discover the emerging cocktail culture in Jaipur, featuring innovative drinks inspired by local ingredients and cultural storytelling.
During the day, Jaipur’s Johri Bazaar presents a visually enchanting scene with numerous jewellery shops adorning its meandering pathways. However, as night descends, the scene transforms dramatically. In the midst of this lies an unassuming (at first) boutique hotel, The Johri, a 19th-century home long known as Lal Haveli, lovingly restored to capture the elegance of a bygone era for a new generation of travellers.
I am here to grab a drink at their bar, The Johri & Sons and the bartender suggests I try one of their signature cocktails, the Aam Panna, comprising agave spirit, charred raw mango juice, mint leaves, and mango — a refreshing drink. What stands out from the outset is the absence of ice dilution in the drink, preserving the cocktail’s flavour integrity. The cocktail’s smoothness allows the ingredients to resonate distinctly beyond the final sip, creating a mellow burst of flavour for the palate.
A new culture
Cocktail culture is undergoing a noteworthy surge in Jaipur. While it might not be firmly defined or as widespread among the city’s residents, there’s an undeniable buzz surrounding it.
“While the term ‘cocktail’ is familiar to many in Jaipur, I’m advocating for a shift in perception beyond the conventional associations like Long Island iced teas and mojitos,” says Abhishek Honawar, The Johri’s founder. It is to be noted that Abhishek is not sceptical about cocktail culture in Jaipur; he feels it has tremendous promise for growth.
The cocktail programme at Johri & Sons celebrates local ingredients, resonating with the essence and emotions of Jaipur. “We’re focussed on infusing innovation into the techniques, elevating the presentation, and ensuring a strong, spirit-forward profile,” says Abhishek.
The launch of this programme in June 2022 was met with an enthusiastic response. At the time, there was not much similar activity elsewhere. However, since then, there has been a noticeable surge in the popularity of crafted cocktails, feels Abhishek, who asks me to try their most popular cocktail, Nazariya. A variation on the negroni, it features clarified watermelon, vermouth, bitter, and gin. The resulting fusion is a narrative of India, meticulously tailored to resonate with The Johri’s clientele.