With Chop Suey and Loyal Fans, a Montana Kitchen Keeps the Flame Burning
The New York Times
Pekin Noodle Parlor, one of the nation’s oldest Chinese restaurants, says goodbye to its longtime owner but holds tight to its colorful past and city.
BUTTE, Mont. — Danny Wong had a system for catching thieves. The longtime owner and face of Pekin Noodle Parlor, the oldest family-owned, continuously operating Chinese restaurant in the United States, ordered servers to lock the front door at the sound of fast footsteps rattling the floorboards. Diners trying to flee the second-story dining room without paying would turn back up the steep stairs in search of another route, only to find Mr. Wong standing there, holding a bayonet and offering a choice: Pay your bill or wash dishes. “We called it Pekin jail,” said Jerry Tam (below), Mr. Wong’s son and Pekin’s current owner.
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