Thanksgiving's roots in Canada can be found in Indigenous cultures and food, chef says

Edmonton chef Scott Iserhoff hasn't always felt conflicted about Thanksgiving.

Like many Canadians, the holiday meant gathering with family and a turkey feast with trimmings. But as Iserhoff grew older, the founder of an Edmonton-based culinary business focusing on Indigenous food became more aware of the holiday's history.

It became increasingly difficult to ignore the holiday's colonial undertones: stories of the first pilgrims in the United States who were greeted by Indigenous people with dinner and help to survive — but also stories of the celebration of the ensuing slaughter of Indigenous people and taking of land, he said.

"I think now is the time to take that back," said Iserhoff said, a Mushkego chef from Attawapiskat First Nation, located on the western shore of James Bay in northern Ontario. 

His business, Pei Pei Chei Ow, offers guests the opportunity to learn about contemporary Indigenous food while also tasting bannock, stews and other dishes.

"Everything that's included in Thanksgiving, it's all Indigenous food," Iserhoff said. "You got the squash, you got the tubers, the potatoes, the mashed potatoes, the turkey, the corn ... they were here before settlers came, and that was a food source of ours."  

Giving thanks and celebrating the harvest and changing seasons are also part of Indigenous cultures, he said.