Sharing ‘Nonbu Kanji’ during Ramzan: Gruel for the fasting soul

Slow-cooked in huge cauldrons, the rice-based nonbu kanji is an integral part of iftar meals, distributed to those in need during Ramzan

A fortnight into Ramzan, the Islamic month of fasting, cooks and caterers have been busy preparing nonbu kanji, a nutritious slow-cooked gruel made from rice and other grains across southern India. The gruel is an integral part of the fast-breaking meal (iftar) among South Indian Muslims. For decades, mosques and other religious institutions have involved the local community in preparing and distributing the gruel to anyone who asks for it. While last year’s lockdown saw a complete closure of Ramzan activities in mosques, this year, many institutions in Tamil Nadu have opted to resume serving nonbu kanji while following hygiene and social distancing protocols. Using roughly the same spices as biryani, nonbu kanji is a meal in itself. Raw rice (basmati or jeeraga samba) is cooked to a mushy consistency in a flavourful broth of mutton or vegetables, and then tempered with thinly-sliced fried onions. Recipes vary according to region, and availability of ingredients. “As the nonbu kanji is perhaps the only proper food that many poor fasting Muslims can afford to have during Ramzan, we try and reach out to as many needy people as possible,” says Mohamed Yusuf, secretary of the Masjid Javeed mosque, which functions under the auspices of the Anna Nagar Islamic Centre in Chennai. We are happy that we have been allowed to serve kanji this year, in keeping with the spirit of Ramzan. We have been following the health guidelines to ensure a safe experience for both the public and the staff,” he adds.