New bans target 'forever chemicals' in clothing. Here's how to avoid exposure

There's less toxic PFAS, or "forever chemicals," in raincoats and other products sold in Canada, thanks to new rules elsewhere. But where are PFAS still found? What are the rules here anyway? Should you throw out your old Gore-Tex jacket? And what should you do to avoid products with PFAS? Here's a closer look.

PFAS, or perfluoroalkyl substances, are often called "forever chemicals" because they're hard to break down and can accumulate in people's bodies and the environment.

They've been widely used industrially, but also for waterproofing and stain repellency in many products, including makeup, paper-based food packaging, feminine hygiene products and clothing such as school uniforms, rain jackets and children's winter gloves.

But they've been linked to many negative health impacts, including increased risk of cancers, reduced immune response and fertility, altered metabolism and increased risk of obesity. 

That's why many jurisdictions are introducing new rules to limit PFAS.

Two U.S. states passed laws restricting PFAS in clothing in 2022 that went into effect at the start of this year.

New York's law bans the sale of apparel containing PFAS as "intentionally added chemicals," except for professional uniforms that protect from health or environmental hazards and outdoor clothing for "severe wet conditions" that is not marketed for general consumer use.

California's law bans the manufacture, distribution or sale of textile articles — not just clothing, but also things like upholstery, bags and bedding — containing PFAS that's either intentionally added or above a certain level. It also has exemptions for clothing for "severe wet weather conditions" until Jan. 1, 2028.

While these rules just went into effect two months ago, companies have had to prepare. Arlene Blum is executive director of Green Science Policy, a group that advocates for regulations to eliminate PFAS. She said already, major clothing companies are "pretty much all out of PFAS."

Bob Kirke is executive director of the Canadian Apparel Federation, which represents companies from throughout the clothing supply chain, from textile manufacturers and distributors to importers and retailers. He said the rules in California, especially, and consumer expectations have caused the Canadian industry to move away from PFAS. "But I could not tell you exactly how much," he added.

Bruce Calder is VP of operations at Ottawa-based Claigan Environmental, which does PFAS testing. He said a ban on the main water-soluble PFAS in Europe has also made a difference. That kind of PFAS is considered the most dangerous because it can be easily absorbed by the body.

"A lot of products are sold globally," Calder said. "[The ban has] had a big impact."

Three groups of well-studied PFAS (PFOS, PFOA and LC-PFCAs) are prohibited in Canada because of their risk to the environment, and Environment Canada told CBC News that new restrictions on production, use, sale and import of these will come in this spring. 

In 2023, the federal government asked companies to report PFAS in products. Cassie Barker, senior program manager at Environmental Defence, a group that has been lobbying to get PFAS out of products, said that will help the government set rules about phasing them out.