Malli Mess tries its hand at Chettinad fare and fusion. How well does it work?

Discover Malli Mess in Anna Nagar, offering a fusion of Chettinad and Indo-Chinese cuisine with unique flavors and dishes.

Anyone following the food scene in Chennai today can tell you two axioms and observations that dominate the current discourse. One, the humble mess experience of elai sapad and quick meals is dramatically transforming with better service at a premium price (think Junior Kuppanna, Thinnai and Paati Veedu). Two, Anna Nagar is now, undisputedly, the most experimental borough in the city, exploding at its seams with the sheer variety of cuisines and pop-up restaurants. 

Malli, a new mess in Anna Nagar’s residential 4th Main Road, is the newest kid on the (V) Block, combining parts of both these axioms. Named after coriander, a pivotal herb and flavouring agent that is part of Tamil cuisine, the mess looks to bring structure and a more relaxed approach to expansive Chettinad fare. It also accommodates crowd favourites like dragon chicken and paneer butter masala in the menu, attempting to cater to a large family audience. This however, begets the question — does Chennai need another Chettinad-style family restaurant? If yes, how does Malli distinguish itself?

Right off the bat, Malli chooses to showcase some clear variance in the menu. We begin the meal with a taste of kadarangai chicken, where the chicken is coated in a wild lemon, citron-esque pickle-coating, combining sour and spice. This distinct dish makes us dig in for seconds, a poor attempt at pacing ourselves for a long meal.

The kola urundai, packed with minced mutton and ground spices leaves behind a strong cinnamon and ginger after-taste while the succulent chicken drumstick coated in a green paste of curry leaf, chilli and coriander provides a hit of spice, both perfectly acceptable flavour profiles for the dishes. We are also served the honey chicken dish from the Indo-Chinese menu as part of the starter list. This however, is disappointingly sweet and could do with some balance from spice and acid.

The restaurant has been experimenting with a fusion menu, says chief operating officer, Malli Mess, Yudish Arun, with several condiments arriving from the group’s own property to the Anna Nagar kitchen. “The valmilagu paneer, (cubeb, a kind of pepper) is grown at our plantation in Yercaud. We make it a point to grind our own masala mix,” he says. While a valiant effort has been made in this direction, the valmilagu paneer, a tikka, could have used a little less marination and a few more minutes in the tandoor. The same can be said of the kungumapoo badam broccoli slathered in saffron and bits of ground almonds. The malli era however, an interesting take on a prawn, is a huge head of prawn cooked to perfection in the tandoor.

Three dishes stand out at this mess. The chicken laapa, a veechu parotta stuffed with a fragrant, hot chicken mince is a delight to eat. We burn the tips of our fingers, trying to finish it in one go. The mutton biryani made of seeraga samba rice is subtle, swaddled in a wonderful shade of brown, and perfectly warm. The pieces are cooked well and are easy to eat with the accompanying onion and chicken gravy. 

Our final recommendation is the uzhavan ukkarai, a moong dal or yellow lentil-based halwa. This decadent cup dripping in ghee and full of a light sweetness from the jaggery, is a delightful way to end the meal. It is wiped completely clean, minutes after it arrives.