From Dubai to New York: Chef Akmal Anuar’s expanding culinary empire
The Hindu
Chef Akmal Anuar's culinary journey began at 10, amidst his parents' hawker food stall. He honed his skills at Les Amis, and later moved to Dubai to create Zengo. Back in Singapore, he co-founded 3Fils, and then moved to Dubai to open Goldfish and 11 Woodfire. He also opened Otoro, Fifty Three, and Mavia, leaving a trail of exceptional culinary experiences. Akmal will host an 8-course dinner at East The Asian Living Room, JW Marriott Bengaluru Prestige Golfshire Resort & Spa. His passion for elevating flavours and showcasing Asian food has driven his culinary journey, and he now focuses on curating meals with temperatures and textures.
Born and raised in Singapore, Chef Akmal Anuar’s culinary journey began at the tender age of 10, amidst the vibrant hustle of his parents’ hawker food stall.
“I grew up seeing my parents work really hard in the food business, and I set out with similar determination,” recalls the second-generation Singaporean Malay. A connoisseur of Malay cuisine, Akmal’s childhood love for aromatic coconut-based curries and rice continues to influence him.
In the early 2000s, he joined as a cook at one of Singapore’s prestigious French restaurants, Les Amis. “From a young age, I knew I needed to work hard and earn money, so eventually working at cafes, taking up part-time shifts in hospitals and through friends, I finally secured a job at Les Amis.”
Under the tutelage of celebrated Singaporean chef, Justin Quek, he honed his skills and acquired the finesse of haute cuisine. “I got lucky, but from there, from that French restaurant in Singapore, my life picked up and made me what I am today,” Akmal humbly acknowledges.
Akmal’s culinary journey led him to Dubai in 2014. Collaborating with the Starwood Group at Le Royal Meridien, he spearheaded the creation of Zengo, a restaurant blending the flavours of Asian and Mexican cuisines. However, the impact of the oil price crash in 2015 cast an unforeseen shadow on the service industry in Dubai, prompting Akmal’s eventual return to Singapore.
“When I left the hotel in Dubai in 2015, it was at a point where I already told myself I’m never going to work for somebody anymore,” he asserts. “I had to let people listen to my voice.” Akmal embraced partnerships and co-founded his first restaurant, 3Fils, in Dubai , in 2016, alongside two Emiratis. After Akmal’s departure in 2019, the restaurant swiftly soared to prominence and secured the top spot on the MENA (Middle East and North Africa) 50 Best list in 2022. Additionally, it earned a coveted Michelin Bib Gourmand this year.
“I have no degree in business. I didn’t graduate from culinary school,” he says. “Everything I know is from years of time and money invested in travelling, reading books and learning by practice on my own in the kitchen. Many didn’t believe in me and it did not work out quite often but with time, I taught myself everything I know today — both in the kitchen and in business.”
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