From Assam to Arunachal: Flavours of the Northeast arrive in Hyderabad

From Assam to Arunachal: Flavours of the Northeast arrive in Hyderabad

Kaji nemu with komola roxh sherbet (Assamese lemon with orange juice), wheels of orange, pickled radish on a bed of hung curd, finished with a drizzle of bhut jolokia honey, a scattering of nuts, and crackling dry-roasted black rice. Then comes the famous Assamese khar, but reimagined as a soup.

Raen, the chef’s studio at The Leela Hyderabad, is offering a vibrant bouquet of flavours from the Northeast through a pop-up titled Mamazaki, curated by Farha Naaz, an independent chef from Guwahati.

Farha, a self-taught chef and top 20 participant in MasterChef India Season 8, brings together contrasting textures and ingredients to create what she calls a “flavour bomb.” But do not expect the usual suspects — no smoked pork, akhuni, or bamboo shoot preparations here. And no, not even the beloved alu pitika.

“These dishes and ingredients are close to my heart,” she confirms. “However, I’m here to show what else the region offers —how we can use our ingredients to explore new pairings and presentations. This is Northeast food with a fresh twist.”

And why the shift from the expected? “Food from the Northeast has a bold taste and aroma, which can be overwhelming for some. I’m a chef by choice, but an agricultural engineer by training, with a specialisation in food preservation,” she explains. “My approach is to start mild, start slow — like a flirtatious meeting. Once the flavours settle in, people are hooked. That’s when their curiosity kicks in.”

Farha’s signature orange blossom salad was followed by a prawn and pear salad. Then came the omita khar — a traditional Assamese papaya khar — served as a soup. As an Assamese myself, I was both curious and ready to pass a mildly judgemental remark.

As the team plated the soup, I noticed all the classic elements were there, including the distinctive hint of ginger, which is usually reserved as a garnish. When the bowl finally arrived, I took a spoonful and it tasted exactly like the omita khar my mother makes at home. A comforting flavour. The sautéed masur dal sprinkled on top added the right bite to balance the runny consistency. My only gripe was the temperature. It could have done with a few more degrees of warmth to truly hit the spot.