Fancy a massage on a Himalayan trek? Trekking in India just got luxurious

As more people strap on designer rucksacks, trekking groups in India are innovating to be less intimidating. Luxury trekking companies now host smaller groups, provide lavish meals, roomier tents and network connectivity up in the hills

At 6.45am on an uneventful day in July, seven trekkers and I wished each other cheery ‘good mornings’ at our campsite in Trunkhol, Kashmir, some 3,500 metres above sea level.

Amidst idyllic rolling green meadows where horses grazed, we sat chomping down a hearty breakfast of omelette, buttered toast, Maggi and kahwa, at the foot of Mount Harmukh (5,142 metres), part of the expansive Himalayan range.

We were mustering energy for our summit climb to Gangabal lake, a turquoise glacier-fed waterbody about seven kilometres from our camp. Our 20-litre trekking backpacks would have to be left behind.

As I packed a water bottle and light jacket into a smaller bag, rain steadily pelted down. I walked with heavy trekking boots, squelching my way through muddy tracts laced with cloud-like sheep, past a 70-foot drop down a valley through which the river Sind flowed.

When I reached my destination after crossing rickety wooden logs over wide streams,past gorgeous glacial blues against the stark grey and white of snow,I thought only of one thing. That I would never come to this lake in an obscure part of the Himalayas ever again.

“Kashmir is heaven on earth,” said Wasim K, our guide. I agreed and documented everything I could on my phone for posterity.

Trekking is a deeply frugal activity. One must only carry what one needs, both material and emotional. The views are the luxury.