El Quijote in the Hotel Chelsea Reopens
The New York Times
An all-day restaurant in Penn 1, an East Village outpost for the Bronx Brewery and more restaurant news.
Its signature red neon sign has not changed, nor have the references to Don Quixote, the Spanish tilter of windmills, on its painted walls, frosted glass, ceramics and more. Now, this restaurant in the Hotel Chelsea on West 23rd Street, one of the city’s oldies — it first opened in 1930 — will open its doors again this week. (It closed in 2018 when the hotel’s renovations began.) The hotel will also reopen this month, but the restaurant is ready now, its size reduced from the original 220 seats to around 65. Sunday Hospitality, the owners of Sunday in Brooklyn, is running it with Charles Seich, a new partner here, and the company’s culinary director and partner, Jaime Young, is in charge of the food. At his side is the chef de cuisine Byron Hogan, who cooked in Spain for the past 12 years, mostly in Madrid, and moved to the United States to work here. “We want to make it authentic, looking more to the north of Spain with the Basque Country and Galicia,” Mr. Young said. Without straying far from the traditional, the chefs have come up with a dish that combines boquerones and oil-cured anchovies, a combination of preserved tuna with leeks and tomato, and squid with morcilla sausage. The paella for which the restaurant has long been known is now made mostly with seafood and also rabbit. The portions are not as massive as in the old days, but that era is evoked by pitchers with red and white sangrias. Spain dominates the wine list, and there are sherries, gins, vermouths and ciders. Burgundy leather, wrought iron, dark wood and a recently uncovered tile floor define the space, with a bar, a few tables and intimate booths. Later this year, Sunday Hospitality will open a French American bistro in the hotel. (Opens Wednesday)
This spacious new restaurant and bar sits on the second level of the newly reconfigured office tower at 1 Pennsylvania Plaza, now called Penn 1. Beyond a lounge, which serves coffee and tea by day and cocktails in the evening, is the main 150-seat dining room open for breakfast, lunch and dinner until 8 p.m. The executive chef Brian Huston and the chef de cuisine Jonathan Ho have devised an American menu with items like softly scrambled eggs and challah French toast for the morning, and for all-day dining, a Little Gem salad with grapefruit and avocado, white bean hummus, lemon chicken soup with orzo, cavatelli Bolognese, grilled branzino, and grilled chicken paillard. A turkey club, shrimp po’ boy and a burger are available for lunch and dinner. The restaurant is run by DMK, a hospitality group from David Morton, whose family founded the Morton’s Steakhouse chain. (Thursday)
This South Bronx brewery, in business since 2011, has opened a satellite brewery, taproom and restaurant in the East Village. It is showcasing what it calls its pilot system, a mini-brewery in the dining room where limited-run beers are brewed. In the Bronx, Empanology does the food, and here it’s Bastard Burgers, a Swedish chain with many outlets known for smashed burgers dressed with various cheeses, sauces, onions and tomatoes. Pat LaFrieda makes a custom Black Angus blend for New York; vegan versions of all menu items are available.
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