‘Beautiful board’: How chess saved an Indian village from alcohol, gambling

The game helped a south Indian community escape alcoholism and gambling. Now, it’s known as the Chess Village of India.

Marottichal, India – Phones, wallets and half-drunk teacups clutter empty tables – except for one – at a teahouse in southern India, where a crowd has formed around a chess board and two competitors.

One of them is 15-year-old Gowrishankar Jayaraj. Surrounded by spectators vying for a view of the chess board, Jayaraj is competing blindfolded.

Playing blind from the game’s opening means the teenager must visualise, maintain and update a mental model of the board, as moves from both players are communicated aloud by a designated referee.

Jayaraj is playing a much older Baby John, whose expression is taut with discomfort. His shrinking shoulders and pursed mouth betray that he is a handful of moves away from losing his fourth game in nearly 40 minutes.

“Gowrishankar is just 15 and already something of a chess prodigy. He beats me even when he is blind,” says John.