Changing the lens

There has been a rise in non-binary models in Indian fashion, but has it led to an inclusive and diverse narrative?

Mumbai-based Nitin Baranwal has been in fashion for three years. The non-binary interior designer turned model, who prefers the pronouns she/her and he/him, has worked with brands such as Ekaya Banaras, Kay Beauty, Budweiser and Levi’s. But it was Rahul Mishra’s haute couture spring/summer 2021 collection back in January that got him truly noticed by the fashion industry - the film, shot at a marble dump site in Rajasthan, saw Baranwal cocooned in the most detailed mushroom-inspired dresses. Represented by the modelling agency, A Little Fly, Baranwal, 25, says he is open to casting opportunities from clients who are looking for male, female and non-binary models. “I change my body language and my screen presence differs based on the project. Having said that, if I were allowed to choose, I'd definitely choose to be portrayed as a non-binary person as that’s something that showcases my true style and my identity,” he explains.

Globally, international models and celebrities such as Indya Moore, Ruby Rose, Nico Tortorella and more, who identify as non-binary, have influenced lifestyle and culture vastly, and started many conversations around alternative identities. GLAAD, an American non-governmental media monitoring organisation, defines non-binary or genderqueer as terms used by individuals who experience their gender identity and/or gender expression as falling outside the categories of man and woman. On the other hand, ‘androgynous’ refers to an outward appearance or expression of indeterminate gender.